Simple 1911 Upgrades

It’s not always an easy task to upgrade your 1911. There is rarely a genuine “drop-in” part that can be used to upgrade a 1911, as I explained in my article “So, you Want to Build a 1911?” Upgrades can be a lot of work. Some require a major project, while others will require a small amount of file work. However, it’s rare that a 1911’s original 1911 design is still in use today. I have owned a few versions of the old warhorse, which were expensive paperweights. These guns were shipped from well-known, high-end manufacturers. It’s possible for a $1,200 gun to malfunction with hollow points. This is something that I regret. Polishing the feed ramp or “breaking it in” is the old man’s remedy. However, if your gun requires a 500-round break in period (easily $300-$750 depending on today’s ammunition prices), then what you are really getting is a gun with corners cut in manufacturing. The burden of performance rests on the buyer and not the manufacturer. Wilson mags stick out a little more than GI mags. It doesn’t make a difference in carry, and it’s nice that you can do a “slap-home” magazine seat if it is sticking. My Colt M45A1 prized Colt has seen 15,000 rounds without any malfunctions, and this is from a gun that was built on the standard Colt manufacturing line. This is how a 1911 should perform in 2020s, brand aside. I would upgrade to Wilson Combat magazines if you have reliability issues. Wilson is the only 1911 mag brand I trust when I bring a 1911 in to test. These mags are superior in design, execution, and I have noticed that even with feed issues with different bullet shapes, most problems disappear instantly. I prefer to replace my plastic base pad with a steel one. It’s slim and elegant, yet still allows for enough protrusion to allow for you to slam it home. In my opinion, Wilson mags are the best. They are very durable, last for a long time, and increase the reliability and feeding of most 1911s. Although the basic 1911 mag is fine, the quality of the magazine issue may vary depending on the manufacturer. Wilson Combat is a company I trust for their Bulletproof line. There are many lengths of releases, depending on whether you want something for competition or carry. But I am more concerned about the internal geometry. Many 1911s have problems with sitting the magazine or allowing the empty mag to fall free. Upgrade to a Wilson release if you are experiencing this problem. They are better built as far as the internal angles and can immediately remedy hard seating or mag sticking. I will immediately add a Wilson Bulletproof extractor if I am experiencing extraction problems. This is an easy upgrade that can be installed in seconds. It will improve ejection and feeding, as well as fix lock-up issues or make the slide work better. This part is a great option for 1911s. It is so inexpensive and so useful that I recommend it to everyone. This is a no gunsmith option that allows you switch from the often uncomfortable and painful GI grip safety. It gives the shooter greater control and comfort. This part is not perfect. There is a gap between the frame and the beavertail. Although this is mostly cosmetic, it can be a problem for some. You will need to change the hammer to a modern style. The spurred GI type hammer won’t work with this beavertail. This is a great option if you are prone to hammer bite with GI guns. I can recall being stunned when I disassembled my first one. Once you understand how they fit together, it is easy to go in a bell curve from dread to confidence and back to dread. The top of our Gaussian curve is where we see it with understanding. However, in my hard-earned and advanced skills set, I have gone back to terror in knowing how much can go wrong if one file stroke is made. Cylinder & Slide trigger pull kits are my favorite. These parts are high-quality and extremely hard. I have fitted many of these kits over time and can tell you that almost all factory-built frame guns require very little to no fitting. Although these kits are not truly drop-in, I do believe they are very close. Cylinder & Slide manufactures extremely rugged internals that are not only high quality but also hard steel. They should last a lifetime. The hammer in the author’s 1911 has seen nearly 20,000 rounds of usage. The 4-pound version of the MARSOC pull kit for.45 ACP is my go-to. I also love the three-part MARSOC pull set, which consists of the hammer and sear, as well as the disconnector. For carry, I prefer a firm, crisp pull, but I prefer a little more take-up and overtravel for field use. C&S kits can be combined, but your final result may differ from advertised. The grips are the most important and overlooked upgrade that you can make to your 1911 for functional improvements. Grip is the interface between the gun and you. Today, grips are often overlooked with the popularity of polymer-framed guns. Glocks can be sent out to have their frames stippled to improve grip. Others add grip wraps, rubber sleeves, or stick-on textured grip wraps to enhance their relationship with their gun. The 1911 comes with simple stock panels. You can dramatically alter the way your gun fits in your hand by simply turning four screws. A 1911 with standard GI Wood grips. LOK grips is my favorite company because of the many options they offer for the 1911. They have a team of skilled artisans and artists who can create any type of grip you can imagine. I was impressed by their production capabilities and the amount of work they put into making something so simple as gun grips. VZ Grips is another company that offers a wide range of 1911 grip options. It’s so easy to modify the 1911 grips that I will sometimes buy one I like and then change the grips to make it feel and look the way I want. One of my old friends said that modern polymer guns were too ugly for him. He also felt they didn’t give him anything to look at. This is the 1911 from above, but with LOK Mayhem Green G10 grips. The functional angle of 1911 grips depends on what you intend to do. I prefer a more comfortable grip for carrying one. It won’t snag on clothes or chafe my sides. For field guns, I prefer a soft texture that allows for steady shooting without being too aggressive. I also like a thumb cutout for the magazine release. A palm swell, or a taper, is a great option for these guns. It allows me to drive my hand into the safety and keeps me steady while shooting fast. After a few years, the little plunger tube spring, which costs only $3, could be used to replace most 1911s. Brownells stocks many brands such as Wilson, Ed Brown, and Wolff. Regular maintenance can easily replace the springs on a 1911. Regular maintenance is easy on a 1911. I do mine as needed. Pay attention to the sight cut, and dovetail type. If I was you, I would decide if sight type is important to me from the beginning or have a gunsmith install it for you. It may be more convenient to have the factory installed night sights on your 1911. It can be difficult to find the right dovetails for a 1911. Many companies make their own versions. Download your Storm Tactical printable target pack62 printable MOA targets with DOT drills – Rifle range in YARDSThis amazing target pack is from Storm Tactical and contains 62 printable targets for rifle and handgun range usage. Target grids and bullseye sizes can be found in MOA. Get Free Targets